Saturday, July 31, 2010
Crank Brothers Candy Pedals
You can clip into these pedals on both the bottom and the top, so you don't have to flip the pedal around to find the entry point. They also have some of the best mud-shedding capabilities of any pedals I've tested. This means you can walk around in the mud without worrying about having to spend a few minutes chiseling out the mud from around your cleats.
Premium brass cleats, which won't rust, are included with the pedals, and are compatible with all Crank Brothers pedal systems. Initially, you may find the tension to be a little bit stiff and the cleats hard to click into the pedals. In the meantime, during the brief break-in period and before they click in smoothly, you can apply some light grease to the cleat and install the provided cleat shim to reduce friction from the shoe.
For 2011, there will be four levels of the Candy series. If the vast majority of your riding takes place on dry roads, the Candy 1 is a great choice; the price of $60 includes pedals, a composite platform body, and a two-year warranty. If you see yourself spending more time off-road, or in wet conditions on the road, it is worth spending the extra money and getting the Candy 2 pedals ($90). They are more durable, with an aluminum body, fully sealed internals, and a five-year warranty. The Candy 3 and 11 series pedals are designed for competitive performance, and might be overkill to use for touring.
If you're looking for a larger platform, be sure to check out the Crank Brothers Acid and Mallet pedals.
Photo by Josh Tack
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TOURING GEAR AND TIPS is written by Joshua Tack of Adventure Cycling's member services department. It appears weekly, highlighting technical aspects of bicycle touring and advice to help better prepare you for the journey ahead.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Bicycle Camping #4--Laos

Wild camping is usually as easy as pulling off the road and finding a flat, secluded spot.
Not so in Laos. In a country with the distinction of having the worst unexploded ordinance problem in the world ... you don't casually wander off the road and pitch a tent. From 1964 to 1973, it is estimated that 1.4 million metric tons of weaponry (mostly cluster bombs) were dropped over Laos. Between 20 and 30 percent of the "bomblets" or "bombies" didn't detonate and litter the countryside to this day.
The photo above is our tent, set up under a fruit stall in northern Laos. Although it was just two feet away from the road, the villagers indicated that this would be a safe place to sleep. We agreed. We had encountered only six or seven vehicles a day on this narrow highway.
A large crowd gathered as we assembled our dome. I juggled for the kids, who hung around for hours. But they finally got bored of the foreign travelers and wandered home across the road.
We bolted up at 2 a.m. when bright lights and what sounded like a fast approaching hurricane sent our pulses skyrocketing. It was a logging truck. The truckers prefer this time of night because they don't have to dodge villagers and farm animals.
Don't let the above description turn you off to traveling in Laos. If you talk to others who have cycled in southeast Asia, many will list Laos as their favorite place. We agree.

To learn more about the issue of unexploded ordinance in Laos and other countries throughout the world, and what you can do to help, visit the MAG (Mine Advisory Group) website.
photo (Roadside Campsite, Laos 2005) by Willie Weir
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SIGHTS AND SOUNDS appears on Friday afternoons. Willie Weir is a columnist for Adventure Cyclist magazine. His latest book Travels with Willie: Adventure Cyclist compiles his favorite writings over the last twelve years. He lives in Seattle with his wife Kat. You can read about their local adventures and life without a car at http://yellowtentadventures.com/.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Food for 5, Beer for 1

It's been striking to me how little has been written on the Adventure Cycling blog about one of the key elements of bike travel: food! So much about gear, emotions, places — but what about the carbs, flavors, and recipes? It's been six weeks since we vaulted into our Pacific Coast tour and we've eaten well (this isn't Antarctica, after all) — but with three weeks to go, we're still hankering after some great meals to be cooked on a Whisperlite. We've come up with ideas for linguine with lemon garlic cream sauce and pasta calvafiore — but please post some new recipes!
I've gotten used to carrying about 24 to 36 hours' worth (or 25 to 35 pounds) of food for a family of five, but it is challenging — and doubly difficult to stick with my principled decision to carry bottled craft beer instead of canned mass-produced beer. Still, it's been an interesting experiment to see which beers taste best after warming for one or two days at about eight inches above the pavement in a Burley Nomad (winner so far: Downtown Brown from Lost Coast Brewery).
Just as important, food-wise, is finding great places to eat and drink along the way. The following list is decidedly random and subjective, but what the heck? Fire away with your additional comments.
Bakeries produce an important cycling consumption category. For you, dear reader, we have eaten many pastries, apple fritters, and breads to do the proper research. Our consensus so far is that four bakeries make the cut as awesome: Farm-To-Market in Edison, WA (all-time greatest cinnamon rolls, with decadent cream-cheese frosting); Tomales Bakery in Tomales, CA (pesto twists to die for, if you ask my daughters); Blue Scorcher in Astoria, OR (ethereal bear claws and a cool vibe, plus nice owner Joe); and Arizmendi in San Francisco (fantastic focaccia, and try the wolverine loaf or seeded baguettes dipped in the bakery's homemade hummus).

Same with breweries. I have gone to many (from Rogue Brewery to Pelican Pub; my daughters aren't involved here) and consumed plenty of brews. At the top of my list is the excellent Fort George Brewery in Astoria. I enjoyed their porter, stout, and Vortex IPA (it did suck me in).

So many more eateries and libations to describe, but the following are a few standouts. Best Mexican: La Fiesta in Crescent City, CA. Best farm: Swanton's in Davenport, CA (with outrageous olallieberry pie — and cyclists get a 10 percent discount when they ride in!). Best fish and chips: tough call, but my daughter Lucy says Bowpicker, in Astoria — set in a real "bowpicker" boat and featuring crispy albacore and impeccable fries. Overall, the family calls it a tie with Fairhaven Fish and Chips in Bellingham, WA. Best ice cream: tie (so far) between Tillamook for their big, sweet, honking all-American scoops and Humphry Slocombe in San Francisco for the most creative (I liked their "secret breakfast," made with bourbon and corn flakes).
Are you salivating yet? Please share your best eating ideas for the Pacific Coast Bicycle Route (especially south of Santa Cruz, where we happen to be), or for any dang place in North America. Our stomachs and taste buds will thank you!
Photos courtesy of Jim Sayer. Top: post-fish and chips at Bowpicker; Center: what was left of the cinnamon rolls from Farm-to-Market; Bottom: the beer selection at Fort George Brewery in Astoria.
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Jim Sayer is executive director of Adventure Cycling Association.
Portraits on the Pacific Coast Route

"I recently took a portrait workshop given by Frank Ockenfels III, a renown celebrity portrait photographer" says Mark. "I thought it would be fun to apply some of the techniques I learned by shooting long-distance cyclists when they pass by my house."
His location, a mere kilometer (0.6 miles) from the Pacific Coast Route in Del Mar, California, seems an ideal spot for finding subjects. Seasoned travelers themselves (across the U.S. twice, the Pacific Coast, New Zealand, and France), Mark and his wife often encounter traveling cyclists while riding their local roads and when taking short weekend bike tours with their two children.

If you are riding the Pacific Coast Route in the next year or so and are interested in having your portrait taken, please contact Mark at bikephotoATironstringDOTcom or through his website, ironstring.com. Everyone who stops by for a portrait will receive an 8"x10" print.
On an organizational note, we hope Jim Sayer and his family can take advantage of this offer while on their epic trip down the Pacific Coast Route.
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GEOPOINTS BULLETIN is written by Jennifer 'Jenn' Milyko, an Adventure Cycling cartographer, and appears weekly, highlighting curious facts, figures and persons from Adventure Cycling's Route Network with tips and hints for personal route creation thrown in for good measure. She also wants to remind you that map corrections and comments are always welcome via the online Map Correction Form.
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
The East Coast Greenway Alliance: Partners in the U.S. Bicycle Route System

"I've believed in coalitions and alliances for years. But it wasn't until I joined the East Coast Greenway Alliance (ECGA) team that I saw what they can do on such a large scale.
"The East Coast Greenway began as a dream to provide cyclists and pedestrians with a safe and accessible travel route between the Maine border with Canada and Key West, Florida. And this 3,000-mile coastal sister to the Appalachian Trail is quickly becoming a reality. We already have a route across 15 states and Washington, D.C., which serves as a backbone for both local commutes and recreational tours.
"While approximately 25 percent of our route is off-road (separated from car traffic), the other 75 percent is made up of the safest and most scenic roads we could find. We are quickly converting the on-road portion into greenway, as our designated greenway grew 15 percent in 2009 and is poised to grow at a similar pace this year. All of this was made possible not just by our thousands of members, but also through the generous partnership of our allies, from the local to the national level.
"Many decisions are made on the local level. Therefore, we need allies like the Farmington Valley Trails Council of Connecticut to help advocate for greenway design and construction in their municipality, county, and state. Similarly, we wouldn't have such a positive relationship with Transportation Secretary LaHood and other crucial federal leaders without the hard work done by our allies in DC and around the country — whether they are the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, the League of American Bicyclists, or the Adventure Cycling Association.
"We are especially proud to work with Adventure Cycling as they lead the emerging U.S. Bicycle Route System. Together, we can achieve a sustainable transport revolution throughout America — what I call an 'Eisenhower 2.0' that incorporates the national goals of public health, environmental stewardship, and affordability into our interstate transportation system. The development of this green travel network in the decade ahead can help expand the cycling community from its small base today, and make our cycling commutes and travel safer and more convenient. While the East Coast Greenway aims to be a model segment of the U.S. Bicycle Route System, every day we learn something from and are indebted to our friends throughout the cycling community.
"Onward, to a Healthy & Sustainable America!"
Dennis Markatos-Soriano
Executive Director
East Coast Greenway Alliance
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BUILDING THE U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE SYSTEM (USBRS) is posted by Ginny Sullivan, USBRS coordinator at Adventure Cycling, and features news and updates related to the emerging U.S. Bicycle Route System. The USBRS project is a collaborative effort, spearheaded by a task force under the auspices of the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO). Members of the task force include officials and staff from state DOTs, the Federal Highway Administration, and nonprofits like the East Coast Greenway Alliance, and Mississippi River Trail, Inc.
Web Resources for Touring Cyclists: Updates, Routes, Accommodations
Inspiring stories and practical advice
It's easy to search Adventure Cycling's publications archive for useful how-to information, inspirational touring stories, and practical advice about trip planning, such as features from our first annual Cyclists' Travel Guide (in pdf format) including "What to Look for in a Touring Bike," "How to Photograph Your Tour," and "The Secret of Going Small." Search the archive by keyword or author. If you love what you see and you're not yet a member, feel free to grab a free sample issue of Adventure Cyclist.
In the archive you will also find past issues of Bike Bits, our free bi-monthly newsletter. While not a web resource, Bike Bits is a text-only e-newsletter featuring brief articles of interest to recreational cyclists, upcoming events, and bicycle industry news, plus organization information, and special deals. Check out the most recent issue or sign-up for Bike Bits now.
Also, be sure to follow Josh Tack's weekly blog column, Touring Gear and Tips, for useful information on topics such as saving cash on a custom built touring bike, essential touring items, touring bike reviews (such as Bike Friday's New World Tourist, and Surly's Long Haul Trucker), and more. There's a lot of inspiration to be found on Adventure Cycling's blog as well. Willie Weir writes of his world-wide cycling adventures in his weekly Sights and Sounds column, and Julie Emnett pens Bicycling Inspirations twice a month.
Since listing our Discussion Forums in my posts last fall, our Forums' community has grown from just over 4,000 users to more than 13,000! It's an active bunch too. To participate in the forums, all you need to do is create a simple log in and password, then you can join discussions about routes, gear, and more. Get (or give) advice, tips, tricks of the trade, etc. There's even a classifieds board. Just doing research? You do not need a log in to read the posts.
Another great site for inspiration -- and now travel scholarships -- is the new Bicycle Travel Network.
Routes and accommodations
With the release of our new Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route this spring, Adventure Cycling has officially mapped more than 40,000 miles of cycling routes throughout North America! Download our Adventure Cycling Route Network map (pdf) and then read our online route descriptions to get a feel for some of what to expect before you go, or simply to start dreaming about where you could go. Remember, you can also download GPS waypoints for each route to use in conjunction with your maps. Have a correction for one of our maps? Let us know! Please fill out our simple map correction form.
Online accommodation services for budget-minded travelers are popping up everywhere and generally there seems to be something for almost everyone. Of course, many touring cyclists are keen on WarmShowers.org and CouchSurfing.org. Some bicycle travelers may also be interested in the recent article "Europe without Hotels," in which New York Times' writer, Benji Lanyado, reviews a list of "social bed and breakfast" sites that connect travelers with local contacts wishing to rent their space. Of course the "B&B" option costs real money, but for some cyclists this kind of arrangement might be preferable to crashing on a couch and is likely more affordable than many hotels.
Shipping Your Bicycle
Ah...a lovely topic that ignites all sorts of conversations across the web, especially as regards airlines. One promising online service is BikeFlights.com, which helps make arrangements for cyclists flying with their rig. According to their website, BikeFlights.com is "your one-stop shop for bicycle shipping, airline tickets and travel insurance." You can also find a list of airlines with links to their shipping pages (along with ground shipping options) on our Shipping & Bike Cases page. And, be sure to download Dan D'Ambrosio's recent (and excellent) Adventure Cyclist feature on "Traveling with a Bicycle" (pdf).
That's a wrap. I'd love to hear about your favorite web resources for touring cyclists.
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NEWS, NETWORKING, AND NEW MEDIA is written by Winona Bateman, Adventure Cycling's media director, and highlights cool media (articles, videos, photos, etc.) and meet-ups related to Adventure Cycling and bicycle travel. Writing a story about bicycle travel or Adventure Cycling Association? You can contact Winona via pressATadventurecyclingDOTorg. Visit our media room, view our news releases, or follow us on Twitter.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Fresh Cycling/Touring Gear Preview from Europe
The ground rules for my comeback 2.0 trade show gear preview: 1) review products only from European companies that sell into the U.S. market; 2) likewise, only small to mid-size companies with innovative products; 3) try not to get swayed by the Swedish booth babes or free Weißbier pints.
The following items are some of my favorite stuff from the show (please note that some of these products will not be available until 2011):
Lightweight, Real-World Sleeping Combo:
The ultra-light backpacking craze is starting to cross over into the bicycle touring community (see Aaron Teasdale’s excellent article on bikepacking here). While I love the idea of shaving off a few pounds of gear where it makes sense, I do not relish sleeping under a tarp or on top of a paper-thin mat for extended bike tours. Maybe I can have my cake and eat it too?
World's Lightest Tent
In 2011, UK-based Terra Nova will introduce the world’s lightest double-wall single person tent — the 495 gram (1 pound) Laser Ultra 1. What I really dig about this design (besides see-thru ULTA flysheet material) is that my 6’4” self can actually fit inside. The Ultra 1’s less expensive cousin, the Terra Nova Laser Competition, offers a larger vestibule and non-see-thru fly, and weighs in at 870 grams. For both of these models, the poles are cut to a length that allows the packed tent bag to fit inside standard-sized panniers. The inner tent can also be removed, permitting the fly to be used as a tarp.
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| The World's Lightest Tent, the 1-pound Terra Nova Laser Ultra 1. Privacy Not Included |
Mat
With its SynMat 7 UL 470 gram inflatable sleeping mat, Switzerland-based Exped has managed to create an insulated air mattress that nearly matches the weight and pack size of the current uninsulated lightweight mattress king, Therm-A-Rest’s NeoAir. Synthetic filling is laminated to the top and bottom of the inner wall, yet the SynMat easily rolls into a jumbo-burrito sized package.
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| Exped SynMat 7 UL, Size M; Friendly Exped Employee, Size S |
USB Chargeable Headlight
German-based Supernova had me drooling for a sample of their Airstream LED headlight. They’ve managed to design a water-resistant aluminum shell that dissipates excessive heat build-up (which can be problematic for battery-powered LED systems). What makes the Airstream really interesting are the standard USB port charger and simple quick-release handlebar mount that allows the headlight to double as a flashlight at camp. Weight: 150 grams. LED: 370 lumens. Battery Life: 2.4 to 24 hours, depending on power setting.
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| Supernova Airstream headlight, connected to The Plug USB Dynamo Charger |
iPhone USB Power Plug
The Plug, from German bike manufacturer Tout Terrain, is a USB charger that pairs with a front dynamo hub in a neatly integrated steering tube design. The company has developed a special cable which allows finicky late model iPhones to charge directly from the system (the iPhone 3gs/4 can't charge straight from a dynamo hub). Other USB devices, like the Supernova Airstream (listed above) and GPS units, are also fair game.
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| The Plug (Photo Courtesy of Tout Terrain) |
Hey, Hey, Hey, Watch the Leather Man!
Your backside can now enjoy an organic saddle experience courtesy of Swedish Bessie. Brooks of England has partnered with a certified organic Swedish cattle farm to offer their classic lineup of leather saddles in a more earth-friendly, "SELECT" option. The marketing rep at the show told me that during his visit to the farm, some of the employees could could actually match the name of a cow to each saddle sample.
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| The Brooks SELECT organic saddle lineup |
The Brooks Hamstead stood out amongst a glut of new bags designed to make urban jaunting more stylish. The carry straps are fitted with oversized carabineer-like clamps that secure quickly to a rear rack.
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| Brooks Hamstead Tote |
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| Brooks Hamstead Clipped to Rack |
The Bergmonch (Mountain Monk) is the brainchild of two German engineering students who spent their free time between studies hiking and mountain biking in the Alps together. During one of their journeys they came up with the idea of a full-suspension downhill push-bike that folds into an integrated backpack, and they brought the plan back to the classroom as their senior thesis. The Dutch-based cycling company Koga Miyata caught wind of the project and offered to produce the Bergmonch, with German outdoor gear behemoth Vaude. The result, a creative backpacking pushbike that looks incredibly fun.
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| The Bermonch in Backpack Mode (Photo Courtesy Bermonch) |
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| The Bergmonch in Full-Suspension Downhill Mode (Photo Courtesy Bergmonch) |
GREGG BLEAKNEY is a writer and photographer with a storage unit based in Seattle, Washington, and who is currently working in Italy. http://www.gbleakney.com/ / Twitter: gthefish
Dual Sport Riders Take to the Great Divide
I had breakfast last Wednesday with a longtime friend from Davenport, Iowa, named Jerry. He and his family used to welcome Bikecentennial riders into their home when the Northern Tier Route passed through their area (it's since been rerouted). He also led a few "light tours" for us in the late 1980s and early '90s.
Jerry still travels on two wheels, but somewhere along the line he discovered that he prefers his bike to come with a motor. Which explains why he and another friend were on their way back to Iowa on their BMW R1200 sport-touring motorcycles, after attending the 2010 BMW International Rally in Redmond, Oregon. (A lot of their rally rides took place on the TransAmerica Trail, and they say they did see a lot of cyclists.)
Anyway, to make a short story long, Jerry said he overheard more than one party at the rally discussing rides they'd made on the Great Divide Route. Being familiar with our Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, he investigated and learned that they were indeed talking about the same route.
Curiosity piqued, after breakfast I came back to the office and did an Internet search for "dual-sport motorcycles on the Great Divide" and came up with numerous links. For starters: This one about a ride made on a 2001 Triumph Tiger and a Suzuki DRZ400; another one about a 2005 adventure, which includes some great photos of the route; this one by Wazzy, a Canadian with a sense of humor; a ride account from Dirt Bike Magazine's website; and, finally, episode one of a three-part YouTube video shot along the route. (Check out what they've done with the Beatles' "Let It Be" and another song, beginning about three minutes into the video.)
Now, while I would hate seeing the Great Divide get overrun with motorized vehicles, I don't think the occasional dual-sport motorcycle rider is anything to get upset about. After all, these guys and gals are not Hells' Angels; in fact, they share a spirit of adventure much like the one possessed by long-distance bikepackers.
What do you think about it?
"My neighbor Bob (and his dog Mentzel) and Bob's 1981 BMW touring/enduro bike, the model that launched the motorcycle adventure-touring craze." Photo by Michael McCoy.
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BIKING WITHOUT BORDERS is posted every Monday by Michael McCoy, Adventure Cycling’s field editor, and highlights a little bit of this or a little bit of that — just about anything, as long as it’s related to traveling by bicycle. Mac also compiles the organization's twice-monthly e-newsletter Bike Bits, which goes free-of-charge to 38,000 readers worldwide.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Biking with Bears
As the summer warms up, many touring cyclists escape to the high, often shady elevations of our Great Divide Mountain Bike Route to beat the heat. This off-road route offers riders plenty of unique challenges in regards to terrain, weather, and unexpected obstacles like downed trees. Other features include isolated camping sites and plenty of wildlife, including bears, especially along the northern half of the route.
Because of the possibility (some might even say likelihood) of bear encounters, some basic "bear-aware" knowledge is a key item to take along with you on your trip.
Bears, especially mothers with cubs, aren't too keen on being surprised, so make noise when you're in bear country. A bear will generally vacate the premises if it hears you coming. Most bikes do a pretty good job of making noise, but conversing with your riding partner (or singing out loud to yourself) will help ensure that any bears in the area hear you before they see you.
Maintaining a clean camp, always a good practice, is essential in bear country. Don't leave food lying around unattended, and set up a bear hang at night to help make sure that you will have something to eat for breakfast in the morning.
We field a lot of questions about bear spray. Carrying bear spray, widely available at sporting goods stores in bear country, is a good idea, but be aware that it should be used only as a last resort. In other words, take precautionary measures such as those mentioned above, and don't let the bear spray lull you into a false sense of invulnerability. Of course, bear spray does not work like bug spray; you don't spray yourself or your tent down, thinking it will act as a repellent. Rather, it is to be sprayed in the bear's face (remember what I said about "last resort"?) Read the directions on the can, and give the spray a small test in an outdoor setting and in a downwind direction, to be sure that you understand how to use it.
A final word of advice: stop in at ranger stations along the route to inquire about any known recent bear activity in the area. The season, available food, and species of bear (black or grizzly) are all considerations to keep in mind while traveling in bear country.
As a side note, if you're visiting our office in Missoula, Montana, there's always a slim possibility of seeing a bear even within our city limits.
photo by Sarah Raz
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TOURING GEAR AND TIPS is written by Joshua Tack of Adventure Cycling's member services department. It appears weekly, highlighting technical aspects of bicycle touring and advice to help better prepare you for the journey ahead.
Friday, July 23, 2010
Bicycle Camping #3--Venezuela
Some wild campsites are worth the extra effort.
Pedaling in the Andes, southwest of Mérida, we came upon this idyllic site. We had been looking for a place to set up a tent for the previous ten miles. The road was narrow and winding. The surrounding countryside was rocky farm and grazing land.
I spotted a beautiful tree and what looked to be a flat patch of earth surrounding it. I hiked up the steep grade, and discovered that the view was stunning. I hiked back down and announced to Kat that the site was indeed camp worthy.
Now we just had to get our bikes and gear up there. It took six trips and almost an hour to haul our bikes and panniers up to our Andes perch.
After our tent went up and our heart rates went back down, we boiled some water for tea and sat back and soaked in the view. We soaked in the sounds, as well — birds and bugs, someone hammering, cowbells, the laughter of kids playing, music from a small radio. After the sun set, the stars popped out, while the lights from a couple of dozen farmhouses glowed like fireflies in the valley below.
This is the kind of campsite you dream about when you're back home, scurrying about in your too-busy world ... and the road calls out your name.
photo (Camping Bliss, Venezuela 2008) by Willie Weir
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SIGHTS AND SOUNDS appears on Friday afternoons. Willie Weir is a columnist for Adventure Cyclist magazine. His latest book Travels with Willie: Adventure Cyclist compiles his favorite writings over the last twelve years. He lives in Seattle with his wife Kat. You can read about their local adventures and life without a car at http://yellowtentadventures.com/.
Rediscovering the Important Things ... by Bike
We followed massive river basins, breezed along the shores of beautiful lakes, climbed two mountain passes (and screamed down the other sides), and took time to really appreciate the beauty and diversity this area has to offer. On a really hot day, Devin convinced me that diving into 45-degree water was a great way to feel refreshed (he was right — it's also a great way to get goosebumps when the temperature is 100 degrees). Devin gained a following as he taught others to how to play "Dummy Rummy," a game taught to him by my mother. Laughter at the table during the game could be heard throughout the camp and spectators were common.
But most of all, I learned that my son has become a man. He relates well to people, cares about what is happening around him, makes conversation with all kinds of people, and has a great sense of humor. He also made sure his mother didn't take too many wrong turns (although I ended up going the wrong way and pedaling an extra mile or two up a hill — his response was an incredulous "You took the uphill choice?!"), and had a great time. What a tremendous gift, one that any parent would love to discover about his or her child.
I hope we all meet again on a future Adventure Cycling trip!
Photo 1: On the downhill side of Washington Pass - photo courtesy of Julie Emnett
Photo 2: Devin at the top of Washington Pass - photo by Kevin MacAfee
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BICYCLING INSPIRATIONS is posted on Friday mornings by Julie Emnett, associate development director, and examines stories that illustrate why and how cyclists support our programs. Learn how you can support Adventure Cycling.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
The Headwaters of 1 — Or, Halfway There
Great cycling roads are like great rivers — there's something mythic in the name or the number, as well as in the very contours of the corridor itself, watery or terrestrial.
So it is with the Pacific Coast Highway, aka Highway 1. It starts in Northern California in the small town of Leggett, at the base of a tough climb, the highest on Adventure Cycling's Pacific Coast Bicycle Route (1,700 feet in all). After the climb, in the usually sun-drenched interior, it rockets south down to the (usually) foggy coast.
The junction is important because it comes just after the halfway mark of the Pacific Coast Route (about 925 miles) and just before the magic 1,000-mile mark. On just about any bike tour, the halfway point is a moment for exhilaration and reflection, especially upon the fact that you're closer to the end than the start — sometimes a mixed moment of achievement and melancholy.
A few days ago, my family and I steered south onto Highway 1, slowly crested Leggett Hill, and whooped our way down for 10 miles to the cool, briny coast. A couple of my daughters exclaimed what an awesome trip this had been, and after one of the hardest climbs so far. It made me feel good as we headed south toward the rugged California coast and San Francisco.
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Listen to a great interview with Jim and his three intrepid young daughters on KWMR West Marin Radio.
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Jim Sayer is executive director of Adventure Cycling Association
Routes & Maps in Glacier Land

Since early June, the Routes & Mapping Department has been operating one person short while Kevin pursues some professional goals — completing glacier research in Mongolia and Bhutan — toward earning his Master's Degree in Geography with Cartography and GIS option.
In addition to all his scholarly work, Kevin was also invited to meet with the mayor of Thimphu, capital of Bhutan, to discuss how the city can best implement bicycle infrastructure as they grow. (I'm sure Kevin met with Ginny Sullivan before he left to learn tips and hints on things to suggest based on her experiences with the roll-out of the U.S. Bicycle Route System.) There are also plans in the works for a cross country bicycle tour event as a kickoff to an upcoming climate summit to be held in Bhutan. I'd like to think we know a thing or two about planning such an event (see Bikecentennial).At the moment, Kevin is in Mongolia retracing the steps of a 1910 Royal Geographical Society expedition to study glacial features, with the intentions of collecting data for comparison and summitting Mount Turgen. I wonder if he'll run into any bicycle travelers up there? And how will his experiences in that region stand up to those of cyclists who ride the new Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route this summer? Both areas are rich in mountains, challenge, and history. Hopefully, for our intrepid cartographer Kevin, he'll also earn stories to tell for years to come — definitely one of the best gifts of travel.
Photographs by Kevin McManigal
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GEOPOINTS BULLETIN is written by Jennifer 'Jenn' Milyko, an Adventure Cycling cartographer, and appears weekly, highlighting curious facts, figures and persons from Adventure Cycling's Route Network with tips and hints for personal route creation thrown in for good measure. She also wants to remind you that map corrections and comments are always welcome via the online Map Correction Form.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Another Bike Ban?

While the Black Hawk ordinance requires cyclists (including TransAmerica Trail riders) to dismount their bicycles and walk .5 miles through town, the St. Charles County ban would affect roads in an entire county, and specifically roads surrounding two Adventure Cycling routes (the Great Rivers Route and Lewis and Clark Bicycle Trail) and one well known long rail-trail, the Katy Trail. In addition, it has the potential of stopping development of three proposed U.S. Bicycle Route corridors (USBR 60, 45, and 66).
The proposal reads: "Bill No. 3620 — Prohibit bicycles on Highway DD, D, F, Z & 94 from Hwy. 40 to County line until shoulders or bicycle lanes are in place." And while the vote was delayed until August, there was discussion of expanding the affected highways — which would then have the potential of also impacting the Mississippi River Trail.
According to the Missouri State Department of Transportation (MoDOT), the county has no stand in restricting use of these roads, because they are state highways. According to spokesperson Melissa Anderson, "MoDOT has no intention of prohibiting cyclists from state roads. Bicyclists have the same rights and responsibilities as drivers according to the law. It is important that there is mutual respect and consideration between cyclists and motorists. Cyclists must obey the laws and motorists need to respect a cyclist's right to use the road and not intentionally cause them harm. Local law enforcement may be able to assist with both of these issues."
However, Joe Brazil, the councilman proposing the ban, disagrees. He says the council has preemptive power, based upon a provision written in the Missouri Constitution which allows for local control in cases of safety — and that it is his concern for motorists' and bicyclists' safety that is prompting the initiative. The roads in question have little to no shoulder and a posted speed limit of 55 mph speed. Moreover, the area is growing in population, so the roads are experiencing an increase in traffic volume.
That being said, there are many ways the County can address safety without banning a legitimate and legal form of transportation. This is an opportunity for us, the cycling community, to inform the political leaders of St. Charles County about the many positive aspects of non-motorized transportation, and how the leaders can encourage coexistence between cars and bicycles. By instituting a multi-prong approach — through such means as traffic calming, speed reductions, law enforcement, share-the-road signs, promotion through county bike maps and education (e.g., public service announcements) — the County could work toward becoming bicycle friendly, thus improving the health and mobility of their communities. Other Missouri communities are making great strides toward becoming bike friendly, which is encouraging.
It also makes good economic sense for towns to attract traveling cyclists to enjoy their hospitality. St. Charles' neighbor, the town of Farmington, has long been known as a cyclist-friendly stopover on the TransAmerica Trail. And if the council members were to ask communities in Michigan why they are endorsing U.S. Bicycle Route 20, they'd tell them about the benefits they see in bicycle tourism.
I recommend you support the local efforts of the Missouri Bicycle and Pedestrian Federation (sign their petition!) and the St. Louis Regional Bicycle Federation. They have already begun the process of coordinating positive and influential messages to the political leaders of St. Charles County. Take a moment to read Bike Portland's blog on the issue to understand the wider concerns this proposed ban poses to all cyclists. If you want to make a difference, write the Council members a courteous note encouraging them to vote against the bill, or use the League of American Bicyclists Advocacy Center to send your message.
For news coverage of this issue, see the St. Louis Post, Fox 2 News , and Bicycle Retailer and Industry News. Stay tuned, as I'm sure we'll have an update for you before the August vote.
Photo of an unknown road in Missouri by John Clifford Fredericks from the Adventure Cycling photo contest on Flickr.
BUILDING THE U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE SYSTEM (USBRS) is posted by Ginny Sullivan, USBRS coordinator at Adventure Cycling, and features news and updates related to the emerging U.S. Bicycle Route System. The USBRS project is a collaborative effort, spearheaded by a task force under the auspices of the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO). Members of the task force include officials and staff from state DOTs, the Federal Highway Administration, and nonprofits like the East Coast Greenway Alliance and Mississippi River Trail, Inc.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Tips For Cycling With A Partner

"A joy shared is a joy doubled" the saying goes, and it's true that bike touring with a partner can indeed be double the fun of a solo tour. A cycling buddy means there's always someone to celebrate milestones with, lend a hand when you get a flat tire, and chat with around the campsite in the evenings.
But, as my husband Andrew and I have learned, bike touring with friends also means making adjustments to your solo touring routine. Here are our tips for a successful bike tour with companions.
1. Discuss Expectations — It’s crucial to be sure you have similar ideas of what a good bike tour entails before you set out. If you want to start cycling at 7am and your friend loves to sleep late, you could be in for more stress than fun. Whenever we go bike touring with other people, we first trade questions (and answers) like "How far do you want to cycle each day?," "How much money do you want to spend?," and "What do you like to see on tour?" This helps prevent aggravating situations down the road.
2. Share Your Talents — Bike touring with friends isn't just about sharing experiences, it's also about sharing responsibility for daily tasks like setting up camp and navigating. Everyone has a talent in some department. For example, I'm great at planning meals, cooking, and writing our journal. Andrew excels at route planning and maintaining the bikes. By dividing up the jobs, no one person feels overwhelmed and everyone gets to contribute something to the tour.
3. Do Your Own Thing Occasionally — Just because you set out on tour together doesn't mean you have to spend every single moment in one another's company. If your cycling buddy wants to see a museum and you don't, that's okay. Simply set a place to meet later in the day. You can pedal on, taking extra time for rest breaks or different sightseeing, before reuniting for lunch or at the campsite that evening.
4. Be Prepared to Compromise — Touring with friends means making group decisions. As a result, you don't always get your way like you do on a solo tour. Understand that if one person is tired or starving, for example, you may have to stop earlier than you would prefer. Don't grumble. Just pull that book out of your panniers and enjoy the unexpected break.
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FRIEDEL GRANT gave up life as a journalist for Reuters to ride a bicycle around the world with her husband. They pedaled 48,000km through 30 countries before settling down to ride bikes in The Netherlands. Friedel writes about bike touring on her website, Travelling Two and you can follow her on Twitter (@travellingtwo). She also contributes to Transitions Abroad and has written a chapter for the Adventure Cycle-Touring Handbook.
Drastic Weight Loss: The Bivvy Option
Media Director Winona Bateman awakens from a fantastic night's slumber. Photo by Sarah Raz.
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SHIPPING NEWS is brought to you by Sarah Raz, Sales Representative/Outreach Coordinator/lover of all things outdoors.
Monday, July 19, 2010
Rolbertos Restaurant Here I Come—On My Bike!
One that received a lot of attention last year involved Sarah Gilbert of Portland, Oregon, who was so incensed at not being permitted at a local Burgerville drive-through with her three sons on their stretch bike, that she launched a successful Twitter campaign against the ban. (Just recently, I ran across a blog by Jody Pellerin, who has mixed feelings about Gilbert's campaign.)
Here’s a similar tale about a Burger King in Washington, D.C., and another about a McDonald’s in Twin Falls, Idaho.
Finally, check out this essay on the state of the drive-through in America, which also touches on the bicycling angle.
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BIKING WITHOUT BORDERS is posted every Monday by Michael McCoy, Adventure Cycling’s field editor, and highlights a little bit of this or a little bit of that — just about anything, as long as it’s related to traveling by bicycle. Mac also compiles the organization's twice-monthly e-newsletter Bike Bits, which goes free-of-charge to 38,000 readers worldwide.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Pannier Rain Covers
Especially on long, extended tours, you can't predict the weather, and it only takes one hard downpour to soak your bag and many of your belongings. And nobody likes riding in a pre-soaked chamois!
My experience has been with the Arkel rain covers, which can be purchased in various sizes for a good fit, and usually run around $40 per pair. Even if the fit isn't dead on, these covers include a drawstring that allows you to cinch them down, preventing them from flapping in the wind, blowing off, and/or snagging on objects.
There are a lot of brand options out there for pannier rain covers, and one trait they all share is that they are quite light and packable. No matter which brand you choose, I recommend going with a bright color, and leaving them attached to your panniers even when the skies are clear, to help keep you and your bike visible to traffic.
Photo by Josh Tack
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TOURING GEAR AND TIPS is written by Joshua Tack of Adventure Cycling's member services department. It appears weekly, highlighting technical aspects of bicycle touring and advice to help better prepare you for the journey ahead.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Bicycle Camping #2--Mexico
Tents aren't just for outdoor camping on a bicycle trip. Check out the photo above. Not enough touring cyclists understand that their tent can also double as a free-standing mosquito net.
Pedaling in Mexico, I came into a town with no suitable tent sites in view. I was a semi-employed actor at the time and on an extremely frugal budget. I found the least expensive hotel room that had a fan.
I didn't realize until later that I had roommates — hundreds of mosquitoes, lurking behind tattered curtains and dusty bed covers. Normally, I'd shut the doors and windows and then go on a mosquito killing spree. But the room was insanely hot and there was no glass in the window openings ... only bars.
I was going to be eaten alive.
I finally resorted to setting up my tent on top of the bed and positioning the fan so some circulated air would pass through the netting.
It was hot ... akin to sleeping in an toaster oven.
The entire episode was worth the look on the hotel owner's face. She knocked on the door, aiming to collect the money for my night's stay. I opened the door and she got a glance at the tent set up on the bed. It was as if she was staring at an elephant.
After she regained her composure, and I promised in broken Spanish that I wouldn't build a campfire in the middle of the room, she walked away shaking her head.
"Gringos," I heard her mumble, as she shuffled down the hall.
photo (BedTent, Mexico 1991) by Willie Weir
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SIGHTS AND SOUNDS appears on Friday afternoons. Willie Weir is a columnist for Adventure Cyclist magazine. His latest book Travels with Willie: Adventure Cyclist compiles his favorite writings over the last twelve years. He lives in Seattle with his wife Kat. You can read about their local adventures and life without a car at http://yellowtentadventures.com/.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Cyclists Only Lodging: Marion United Methodist Church
Wow, word of mouth really is a powerful thing.
Pastor Garvey went on to say, "We hosted some 24 cyclists last year (including a Spaniard!), a huge upswing apparently due to the economy, as many campgrounds have had to close. Prior to that, people just 'lucked-upon' us, but now a church member runs a restaurant at the intersection by the courthouse, and she refers them on to me. I've thoroughly enjoyed meeting them all."
In addition to being included on our maps, the church members are also interested in finding ways to make cyclists feel welcome in their town. At a recent meeting, they discussed the idea of adding a cyclist symbol for their church sign. (Anyone know of a resource to help them make this happen?) I made sure they were aware of the Become a Bicycle Travel Friendly Town pdf we offer — though they are already well on their way to being a Cyclists' Only Lodging option of the first degree. Our thanks to you, Marion, Kentucky!
photos by Wayne Garvey
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GEOPOINTS BULLETIN is written by Jennifer 'Jenn' Milyko, an Adventure Cycling cartographer, and appears weekly, highlighting curious facts, figures and persons from Adventure Cycling's Route Network with tips and hints for personal route creation thrown in for good measure. She also wants to remind you that map corrections and comments are always welcome via the online Map Correction Form.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
European-American Heritage and Culture Along the Mississippi River Trail

Last month, I introduced you to Bob Robinson, author of the Mississippi River Trail (MRT) Guidebook. Today, his guest blog continues as he explores the European-American history along this fabulous trail.
"In a June post, I discussed the various historic and cultural sites along the Mississippi River Trail (MRT) associated with early Native Americans. This entry lists a sample of sites along the route that document the role the river played for European expansion in the area.

"Alongside the MRT in Alton, Illinois, cyclists can view a re-creation of the Piasa Bird, which Father Jacques Marquette reported on in his 1673 journal, when he and Louis Joliet became the first Europeans to explore the Mississippi River. As you read the interpretive displays and historical monuments along the MRT, you begin to understand the early international involvements in the lands that border the Mississippi. As the French came down from Canada, the Spanish came up from the south, and both the English and Americans arrived from the east, each country claimed ownership of these lands. There were periods in history when settlers along the river were uncertain which country owned the land on which they lived.

"There are also historical sites along the route that track America's migration into the area. The Lewis & Clark State Historic Site in Illinois commemorates the official point of departure for the explorers' famous expedition into the lands acquired by the Louisiana Purchase. The MRT also passes a historical marker and interpretative display in Charleston, Missouri, where Lewis & Clark's group camped for an extended period, learning the skills needed on their journey. Still farther along the MRT, at Arkansas' Louisiana Purchase State Park you can hike a boardwalk through a headwaters swamp to visit the monument that marks the initial point from which all surveys of the Louisiana Purchase territory were made.
"The MRT also routes cyclists past numerous historical sites documenting another significant period in America's history, the Civil War. At Belmont State Park in Kentucky, you can see a section of the massive chain and anchor that was strung across the Mississippi River by Confederates to block Union gunboats. At Vicksburg National Military Park, you can ride your bicycle on the 16-mile road tour past more than 1,300 monuments documenting the battles fought in the area. Across the river from Vicksburg, you can visit a remaining segment of Grant's Canal, which was an attempt by the Union commander to dig a canal to bypass the Confederate artillery in Vicksburg.
"The corridor of the Mississippi River tells an intriguing story of America's culture and heritage, for those who take the time to follow it. As Ernest Hemingway once stated, 'You have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.'
"Enjoy your MRT Adventure!"
Bob Robinson
Author of Bicycling Guide to the Mississippi River Trail
Thanks, Bob, for another excellent cultural exploration of the MRT!
Photos courtesy of Bob Robinson and the Lewis and Clark State Historic Site.
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CONNECTIONS is posted by Ginny Sullivan, Adventure Cycling's special projects director, and features the cultural, historical, geographical, and human connections created through bike travel. Find out about our award-winning Underground Railroad Bicycle Route.
Living the Dream
As Jim put it in his July 10 post, travel by bicycle offers real independence (for all of us at any age) and delivers moments of joy that are impossible to experience from behind the windshield of a car or RV: the earthy scent of a dewy morning, catching a glimpse of large mammals moving mysteriously through the trees, the well-deserved swell of pride after conquering a challenging mountain pass under your own self-propelled power.
Every year thousands of cyclists — of every age and level of experience — embrace the joys of bicycle touring. Below are photos of some of them who have visited Adventure Cycling's Missoula headquarters this summer while living out their cycling dreams.
There is still plenty of time this summer to get out there and do some kind of trip by bike. Plan an overnight trip to a nearby state park. Plot a weekend getaway with a few friends — a quick two-day trip with no agenda, or build an adventure around a specific activity such as wine tasting, visiting historic landmarks in your area, or hitting all the best swimming holes.
Now would also be a great time to start planning your next big tour. Check out Adventure Cycling's more than 40,000 miles of mapped cycling routes across North America. Visit our How-To Department, and make sure to follow Josh Tack's Touring Gear and Tips column here on our blog (published on Saturday mornings).
Every single journey starts with a dream. We're here to help make your dreams become reality. More resources at http://www.adventurecycling.org/.
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NEWS, NETWORKING, AND NEW MEDIA is written by Winona Bateman, Adventure Cycling's media director, and highlights cool media (articles, videos, photos, etc.) and meet-ups related to Adventure Cycling and bicycle travel. Writing a story about bicycle travel or Adventure Cycling Association? You can contact Winona via pressATadventurecyclingDOTorg. Visit our media room, view our news releases, or follow us on Twitter.










