Thursday, December 31, 2009

Cycling Goals for 2010


'Tis the time of year to set some goals before turning the page into the new year. After a couple of years without a tour, I've got three biggies related to bicycle travel this year.

1. Finally get that new touring bike I've been craving! A Truckaccino Tan Surly Long Haul Trucker surely has my name on it.

2. Do my first S24O (sub-24 hour overnight). Not familiar with bike overnights? Check out this Adventure Cyclist story on S240s (PDF). There are lots of great options in the neighborhood, I simply need to choose one and make it happen.

3. And last but not least, take advantage of our fabulous bike respite benefit here at Adventure Cycling and go on a tour! Right now it looks like the Black Hills are calling loudest to me. I'm fairly familiar with the route since I created the maps for the inaugural offering of this tour. I think it will be a good first tour for my husband, as well.

How about you? What are your ambitions for the 2010 touring season?

in this photo: Jenn sets the camera timer to capture a Day 1 picture of her bike respite in 2006

photo by Jenn Milyko


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GEOPOINTS BULLETIN is written by Jennifer 'Jenn' Milyko, an Adventure Cycling cartographer, and appears weekly, highlighting curious facts, figures and persons from Adventure Cycling's Route Network with tips and hints for personal route creation thrown in for good measure.

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Stories Make Bicycle Adventures Sing


I recently read a story of two sisters that biked down the Atlantic Coast from Maine to Florida and then wrote a journal article which was featured in the Chicago Daily Herald. The encounters they had while on road are an expression of wit and humor -- but it's the story they tell, that makes this type of road trip unique.

I have my own stories. My first organized tour experience (Into to Bike Touring) was with my 15-year-old son when he was at the height of indifference to his family. We bonded over the bike in the Colorado mountains. It was an important touchstone in our relationship and served to connect us in ways we're still exploring today. Picture above is Mr. Al, from Texas, on last year's Heart of the Underground Railroad Tour. From the moment I met him, he lamented his age, his bike (a Trek mountain bike), and his training ground (a Texas gravel trail). Though Mr. Al blustered a bit, and put on a show of not being up to the task, he continued to prove to us and to himself that he had the ability to conquer each leg of the tour with Texas grace and tenacity. Well done, Mr. Al!

One of the best places to read bike touring stories is on www.crazyguyonabike.com -- a compendium of day-by-day travel journals that really make bike adventures sing. Give yourself plenty of time to dig into this site and read the stories. Mark it as a favorite and go back when you're looking for inspiration.

Another resource for bike travel stories can be found on Adventure Cycling's Ride Registry. This section of our website provides a place to read individual stories about both North American adventures and those abroad.

No matter where you go or what the reason, if you go by bicycle, sooner or later you'll have a story to relate. Please take a moment to share your stories, we are anxious to hear them.

photo by Ginny Sullivan

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CONNECTIONS is posted twice a month by Ginny Sullivan, Adventure Cycling's special projects director and features the cultural, historical, geographical, and human connections created through bike travel. Find out about our award-winning Underground Railroad Bicycle Route.

Top Five Adventure Cycling Blog Posts for 2009

Looking at the top content from our first six months of blogging, I have to say I wasn't really surprised by the major trend in our top 5 most popular posts, which were:

5. Josh on the Brooks B17 Saddle;

4. Josh on the Raleigh Sojourn Touring Bike;

3. Josh on Dual Terrain Touring Bikes;

2. My round up of Free Web Resources for the Traveling Cyclist;

And,...you guessed it...

1. Josh on the Surly Long Haul Trucker.

We know you all love Josh, but also, you all clearly love bicycles! Not a shocker particularly.

Josh leads the blog team in producing popular -- and we think really useful -- blog content for his Touring Gear and Tips column. His posts generate a lot of discussion -- particularly on our Facebook page -- so, as we head into 2010, we're going to work to give you even more gear related content.

Congrats to Josh on rocking the blog stats for 2009! And thanks to all the dedicated, talented staff who contribute their time and expertise to help make Adventure Cycling's blog another great resource for traveling cyclists.

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NEWS, NETWORKING, AND NEW MEDIA is written by Winona Bateman, Adventure Cycling's media director, and appears weekly, highlighting cool media (articles, videos, photos, etc.) related to Adventure Cycling and bicycle travel. Writing a story about bicycle travel or Adventure Cycling Association? You can contact Winona via our media room or view our news releases.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Cycling Treats for 2010

Can you believe it’s almost a new year -- and decade? After a tumultuous 2009, I am looking forward to a great 2010, full of new routes, projects, and events at Adventure Cycling.

You can find out more about what’s planned for the coming year in my latest column in Adventure Cyclist but here are some highlights:

- Release (in early April) of the 2,400 mile Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route;

- Celebration of passing the 40,000 mile mark for our Adventure Cycling Route Network (that’s more than one-and-a-half times around the planet!);

- Beginning of research on a new spur though Michigan, Ohio, and Canada off our renowned Underground Railroad Bicycle Route -- and selection of our next epic bicycle route this summer;

- Launch of a brand-new Cycle Montana tour (through a unique combo of river, mountain, and ranching landscapes) this summer, along with 47 other tours and instructional courses;

- Advocacy at the National Bike Summit and over the year for a more bike-friendly federal transportation bill; and

- Work with more than a dozen states to establish the first new routes in the official U.S. Bicycle Route System.

There’s much more I could include but it’s the holiday season, so let me conclude with a simple but hearty “thank you” to all of you who are part of the Adventure Cycling community. We appreciate your support and participation -- and wish you a very happy new year!

in this photo: a rider with the right attitude on Adventure Cycling's Cycle Washington tour
photo by Curtis Corlew


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Jim Sayer is the executive director of Adventure Cycling Association.

Monday, December 28, 2009

10 Possible New Year's Resolutions for Cyclists

Can you believe we will turn the calendars over to 2010 next weekend? Before we do, I thought I'd continue here with the holiday theme I started last week by wracking my brain to come up with 10 possible New Year’s Resolutions for cyclists. Some of them are Adventure Cycling-related and others are not; some are aimed at self-improvement and some at helping others. Here goes:

I resolve to ...

1. Share the bicycle travel spirit by giving an Adventure Cycling gift membership to a friend or relative.

2. (For bike-commuting neophytes) Dip my toes in the water by replacing one errand of a mile or less per week by adopting the One Mile Solution.

3. Ride my bike to work or school at least one day this winter.

4. Introduce a friend or colleague to bicycle travel by taking him or her on a Sub-24 Hour Overnight (S24O).

5. Nominate a deserving person or bike shop for a 2010 Bicycle Travel Award (nominations accepted after July 1).

6. (For mountain bikers) Give back to my sport by signing up for a trail-building class through the International Mountain Bicycling Association.

7. (For the non-mechanical) Find out if there's a course in bicycle maintenance and repair that I can sign up for.

8. Train for and tackle a century ride.

9. Do something to help make my community more bicycle friendly.

10. Sign up for Adventure Cycling's free Bike Bits e-newsletter to get a serious shot of inspiration twice each month.

Have you got any good ones to add?

Thanks, and Happy New Year!

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BIKING WITHOUT BORDERS is posted every Monday by Michael McCoy, Adventure Cycling’s field editor, and highlights a little bit of this or a little bit of that — just about anything, as long as it’s related to traveling by bicycle.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Burley Nomad Bike Trailer



Align Center
All my life I have toured with panniers, and this marks the first time I´ve made my transition to a trailer. It´s not that I have anything against panniers, or want to jump in on the debate as to which is more efficient. I just wanted to see what all the hype was about.

I have been touring the Mexico Pacific coast for a few weeks now with Tours Specialist Sarah Raz, and we are both toting the Burley Nomad trailer. The Nomad has a couple big draws that separate it from other trailers. The system they use to mount the trailer to the bike has been improved over the past few years, and instead of clamping down to the frame, the trailer uses a hitch design. It consists of a small aluminum piece that you clamp to your rear dropouts through the rear skewer. The trailer arm then has a small pin that drops into the hitch. The system is very secure, and allows the trailer to move fluidly behind. We did get some loud squeaks out of the hitch, but they were quickly quieted with some light grease.

Another draw to the Burley Nomad is that it is very light at 14.4 pounds, and is easily collapsible. We were able to fit a trailer (with both wheels and all attachments), in addition to all of our clothing and camping gear into one duffle bag that was easily checked onto a plane. No tools are required for assembly, and it goes back together in minutes.

Using two wheels, the trailer is best suited for road use, and its low center of gravity, with modest wheelbase, keeps it upright through large off camber bumps and potholes. The top cover does resist water, but the trailer is not waterproof. If you anticipate rain, I would suggest putting your belonging in dry bags, or sealed plastic bags.

So am I sold on the trailer over panniers? I´m perfectly content with either setup. Both systems transport my gear from point A to point B quite well, and are easily serviceable on the road.

The Burley Nomad retails for $350, and there are plenty of accessories and replacement parts available.

photo by Josh Tack

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TOURING GEAR AND TIPS is written by Joshua Tack of Adventure Cycling's member services department. It appears weekly, highlighting technical aspects of bicycle touring and advice to help better prepare you for the journey ahead.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Best Christmas on the Road?


I love being home for the holidays ... but I also have fond memories of Christmas on the road. There is something magical about celebrating a familiar holiday in a foreign land.

In New Zealand I was taken in by an Anglican Vicar and his family. Kat and I organized a Christmas party of world travelers in Chiang Mai, Thailand. I'll never forget falling to sleep on Christmas Eve to the grunts and snortings of camels in India. But the most unique and possibly my favorite Christmas was in Remedios, Cuba.

Here's the piece that originally ran on public radio station KUOW in Seattle.

Christmas Eve--Remedios, Cuba









What is your favorite holiday story from the road? Most exotic locale?

Whether you are pedaling somewhere exotic surrounded by palm trees or housebound surrounded by snow ... here's wishing you the happiest of holidays!

audio recording (Las Parandas) by Willie Weir
photos (Remedios, Cuba-1998) by Willie Weir

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SIGHTS AND SOUNDS appears on Friday afternoons. Willie Weir is a columnist for Adventure Cyclist magazine. His latest book Travels with Willie: Adventure Cyclist compiles his favorite writings over the last twelve years. He lives in Seattle with his wife Kat. You can read about their local adventures and life without a car at www.yellowtentadventures.com.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Timing Your Cycling Tour: Pass Planning Resources


As promised in last week's blog post, I have a tip on how to determine when mountain passes typically open and closed. In general, you won't find a better spot to begin this research than an individual state's Department of Transportation (DOT) website. Check out this nice round up of state resources created by the US Department of Transportation.

California and Washington are great examples of helpful displays of this information, unfortunately, every state site has its own organizational system. The place to start on most DOT sites is to locate a tab or label called "Travel" or maybe "Highways". If you keep clicking likely suspects on those pages, you'll eventually find the jackpot. Or, if you don't see something that seems plausible, utilize the site's search function using words like "highway conditions" or "winter driving" (without quotes) to yield the best results.

Of course, if you're planning to ride a route in the Adventure Cycling Route Network, a good general guide of when to ride can be found in the Routes & Mapping FAQ page. Scroll down the list to this question, "When is the best time to ride a specific route?" One of the criteria for developing the answer for each route was evaluating the viability of crossing mountain passes.

in this photo: Julie Huck is enjoying fresh snow at the top of Chief Joseph Pass on Montana/Idaho border on the first day of spring in 2009.

photo courtesy of msbicycle's photostream on Flickr

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GEOPOINTS BULLETIN is written by Jennifer 'Jenn' Milyko, an Adventure Cycling cartographer, and appears weekly, highlighting curious facts, figures and persons from Adventure Cycling's Route Network with tips and hints for personal route creation thrown in for good measure.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Puget Sound Map - A Great Example of What's to Come

As the coordinator for the U.S. Bicycle Route System, I learn about all sorts of great work going on in the bicycling world and have the opportunity to meet the amazing individuals who make these things happen.

Recently I was introduced to Dennis Neuzil, a retired traffic engineer and avid cyclist in the beautiful state of Washington. Dennis volunteers his time for the Cascade Bicycle Club, one of the largest bike clubs on the continent with 11,000 members.

Dennis recognized that the Seattle-Tacoma region was missing bicycling connections. He and a group of dedicated volunteers helped create the Puget Sound Regional Bicycle Route Network Study: Assessment and Recommendations that eventually resulted in the Central Puget Sound Regional Class Bicycle Route Network map (call CBC for the map at 206-522-3222). The map covers four counties, 90 cities, and three transportation districts, and identifies 1,500 miles of bicycle routes.

The map links gateways (i.e. cities, universities, other key destinations) in a pass/fail standard: green routes are good as they are, red routes are priorities for improvements. This map serves two purposes; 1) it provides transportation information to cyclists (though not intended as a wayfinding map, it does unite a large metro region geographically) and; 2) it creates an opportunity for transportation districts to prioritize and fix the gaps.

This is the perfect example of how regions across the country can mobilize and expand their city networks to incorporate suburbs and link into neighboring cities. The U.S. Bicycle Route System may serve as the impetus for many metro regions to make urban, suburban, and rural connections (doesn't that sing?).

For some areas, like rural Washington, this won't be difficult, as it has limited roads and services from which to choose. But for more densely populated regions, it will be necessary to identify road conditions and attributes so a well-informed decision for continuous routing can be made. This process will also help cities, counties and the state transportation departments collectively set long-term goals for bicycling improvements. Three states I know of are currently engaged in this kind of process: Florida and Georgia are assessing roads within Corridor 1 and 15, and the Virginia Department of Transportation is working on a state-wide bicycle plan that includes acknowledgment, maintenance, and expansion of their U.S. Bicycle Routes.

If you know of other studies, policies or examples pertaining to the development of long distance bicycle routes, please tell me about them. You can post information or links on the USBRS Forums.

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BUILDING THE U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE SYSTEM is posted twice per month by Ginny Sullivan, USBRS coordinator, and features news and updates related to the emerging U.S. Bicycle Route System.

Preview of Upcoming Florida Events - More News Soon!

Soon, our intrepid executive director, Jim Sayer, will hit the road and head to the sunny state of Florida for a week-long, whirlwind visit. He's planning several regional gatherings in the area for our members, and other interested cyclists, who want to learn more about bicycle travel, our organization, and national projects such as the U.S. Bicycle Route System.

Our first few gatherings are confirmed for Tallahassee, Orlando, and Jacksonville (a few more are pending so watch for Amy Corbin's upcoming membership post that will have more complete details). For now, check out the details on these first three Florida events.

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NEWS, NETWORKING, AND NEW MEDIA is written by Winona Bateman, Adventure Cycling's media director, and appears weekly, highlighting cool media (articles, videos, photos, etc.) related to Adventure Cycling and bicycle travel. Writing a story about bicycle travel or Adventure Cycling Association? You can contact Winona via our media room or view our news releases.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Inspiration

You never know when and where inspiration will strike. That's especially the case when I travel for Adventure Cycling to meet members, donors, advocates, and public officials.

A couple of weeks ago, I was in Colorado, where we held three member gatherings (with 250 attendees, thank you!), visited the tasty, bike-friendly New Belgium Brewery, strategized with Bicycle Colorado (one of America's best statewide bike advocacy groups), met with Bikes Belong (the bike industry's very active trade group, which provides grant support for our work to create a U.S. Bicycle Route System [USBRS]), and toured a research facility for SRAM (which also generously supports the USBRS).

I met many great people, but true inspiration came unexpectedly when I joined the ever-energetic Al Brody (a leader of Bike Colorado Springs) and Randy Neufeld from the SRAM Cycling Fund on a cold morning in the shadow of Pikes Peak. We met up with Dan Schwieder, who works for the City of Colorado Springs on an adaptive cycling program -- enabling physically or mentally challenged people to use a variety of trikes, hand cycles, and other muscle-powered vehicles for fitness, fun, and self-discovery.

It was incredible. Despite the cold weather, more than a dozen folks showed, saddled up, and took off on an hour-long riverside ride. Really no different than your average bicycle tour or day trip -- but after trying those hand cranks for a few minutes and sharing some pretty big smiles, it felt really different -- and inspiring. I was especially impressed by the spirited
Alyssa Helms (pictured above getting a little assistance from Dan), who couldn't wait to ride.

In the middle of the hectic holiday season, it was a gleaming reminder of the power of the bike to take you where you want to go.

photo by Jim Sayer

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Jim Sayer is the executive director of Adventure Cycling Association.

Coverup! The Coolest Helmets to Wear on Tour


The rules for Adventure Cycling tours are few.
1. Have a good time
2. Wear a helmet

I'm pretty sure you've got number one covered, but let's devote a little time here to number two. Seriously, we spend so much time obsessing about the perfect jersey, the perfect wicking gloves, while helmets are simply tossed on without a second thought, year after year. The perfect outfit topper, however, does exist; and your helmet doesn't have to be geeky!

Check out my favorite options:

Yakkay creates helmets for people who appreciate function and style. Is this girl wearing a sweet white hat? No! She's wearing a bicycle helmet, and is ready to ride.


Maybe, though, you're looking for something a little lower profile; something that says: I appreciate good taste AND good cycling form. In that case, check out the Bell Citi pictured up top--at a mere $48, it's a case of good taste matching good value.

top photo by Bell
bottom photo by Yakkay

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ON THE ROAD is posted each Tuesday by Sarah Raz, Adventure Cycling's Tours Specialist and Intrepid Traveler, and shines a spotlight on the daily delights that take place on Adventure Cycling Tours.


Monday, December 21, 2009

Cycling the Holiday Spirit

My wife and I have learned in recent years that few things fill us with as much holiday spirit and joy as contributing to causes that help others truly in need. This year, for instance, our chosen charities are the local food bank and the "Subs for Santa" program, through which we purchased gifts for an entire, anonymous family. (Don't get me wrong, I'm not claiming total altruism: we're also buying ourselves that long-awaited widescreen TV and a few other goodies.)

If you, too, like the idea of helping out others less fortunate than you during the holidays, you might consider doing so with a cycling twist. Among the many bicycle-related charities out there are these:

Trips for Kids. Operating approximately sixty chapters in the U.S., Canada, and Israel, this bunch has opened the world of cycling to more than 50,000 at-risk youth through organized mountain-bike rides.

ACIRFA. That's Africa spelled backward, and they're "Turning Africa Around One Bike at a Time." It's one of numerous nonprofits striving to get more bicycles and bicycle enterprises into the reaches of impoverished rural Africa.

Bikes Not Bombs. This nonprofit promotes bicycle technology as an alternative to war and environmental destruction. For a quarter century, the group has served as a nexus of bike recycling and community empowerment, from the lower income neighborhoods of Boston to poor nations in the Southern Hemisphere.

Pedals for Progress. Since 1991, this organization has shipped nearly 125,000 used bicycles from the U.S. to partner charities in more than thirty developing nations.

Yield to Life. Launched by professional bike racer and Utahan David Zabriskie -- who himself has been hit by cars while cycling in the U.S. three too many times -- Yield to Life strives to "promote positive attitudes toward cyclists and replace any hostility that exists between motorists and cyclists with understanding, respect, and appreciation for all life on the road."

If you like this idea, but would prefer to help out on a more local level, check with a bicycle club, recreation program, or bike shop in your community to learn if there's a program you can donate to that will get bicycles (or helmets, or adventures ...) into the hands of more kids and adults.

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BIKING WITHOUT BORDERS is posted every Monday by Michael McCoy, Adventure Cycling’s field editor, and highlights a little bit of this or a little bit of that — just about anything, as long as it’s related to traveling by bicycle.

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Roads + animals = roadkill


There are some guarantees with cycling. Beyond the promise of adventure and the chance to witness unique and beautiful sights, at some point you’re bound to spot -- or smell -- road kill. No matter where you are, it appears that dead animals go hand in hand with roads.

Cyclists do play a part in this carnage: untold numbers of insects and handfuls of sunning reptiles have met their match with 1.25 inch rubber. Some of us have harrowing tales of near misses and the occasional ‘hit and roll’ with larger creatures.

Yet cyclists’ involvement in the 2 million animals killed on U.S. roads every year is negligible. Cars and trucks are the big problem. But, excitingly, there are many tools available to reduce roadkill levels. These range from changing driver behavior through signage and education, to changing wildlife behavior, or changing the landscape through which wildlife move using wildlife crossing structures (see picture below) and fencing.

To learn about wildlife crossing structures and other mitigation tools, check out this wildlife-vehicle collision reduction study report and this educational website.



We all can drive our cars slower and pay more attention to wildlife. We can also support roadkill mitigation efforts by donating to or volunteering with organizations working on these issues. Of course, the most enjoyable way we can reduce our impact on wildlife is to jump on our bikes and self-propel our way through life. Just keep your eyes open for caterpillars.

photos by Kylie Paul

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GREENCYCLE is posted each Saturday by Kylie Paul, Adventure Cycling’s sales and shipping specialist. With a lifetime commitment to conservation, Kylie hopes to share the many ways that bicycling and Adventure Cycling are helping to improve our planet!

Surly Pugsley


With 3.7" tires, the Surly Pugsley is best suited for the snow and sand, but like most bikes, it has broken out of its intended niche and has been utilized for commuting, mountain bike races, and touring.

Like all of Surly's bikes, the frame is made of a strong, and economical 4130 CroMoly steel. To accommodate the massive tires, the fork and rear stays have to be much wider than normal, which in turn creates a few extra unique features to the bike. For one, both front and rear dropouts have 135mm spacing, which means a rear wheel hub will fit in both front and back. Horizontal dropouts give you a single speed option, which may come in handy if you wish to run an internal hub, and you still have the derailleur dropout to run a traditional setup. The wider chainstays result in a 100mm bottom bracket shell to keep a smooth chain line from front to back, and this also gives you plenty of room to use a mountain bike triple crankset.

For wheels, you will want to use Surly's Large Marge rims coupled with their Endomorph tires. You have the option to choose between disc brakes or an extra wide 120mm caliper brake. If you go the disc brake route, I recommend mechanical disc brakes, since they are easier to service in the field.

As for loading your gear onto this bike, there are eyelets for a rear rack, and the fork is more than strong enough to attach a front rack with band clamps.



The ride quality of the bike is just as unique as the bike itself. The 26 inch wheels with 4 inch tires cause the bike to sit up high like a 29er, and the large volume tubes provide plenty of suspension for rough terrain. Before taking it out on the trail, be sure to get a feel for the steering.

While the bike is certainly out of the ordinary, it is perfectly suited for loaded touring, especially on a route such as the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.

photos by Josh Tack

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TOURING GEAR AND TIPS is written by Joshua Tack of Adventure Cycling's member services department. It appears weekly, highlighting technical aspects of bicycle touring and advice to help better prepare you for the journey ahead.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Pedaling Through History--Experiencing the event behind Clint Eastwood's "Invictus"


I had to see the opening weekend of Invictus, Clint Eastwood's latest film about South Africa's epic run for the Rugby World Cup in 1995. Not because I'm a diehard Clint Eastwood fan, or a fan of the sport of rugby. I had to go because I was there.

Not in the stadium. But in South Africa. I was in the midst of a five month bike trip through a country that had elected its first black president, Nelson Mandela.

Rugby was a sport played exclusively by whites and Nelson Mandela, by embracing the team, transformed them from a symbol of apartheid to a symbol of unification.

I didn't know much about the sport or the tournament when some locals invited me into a pub in Matatiel to watch the first match against Australia. The Springboks (South Africa's team) were supposed to lose. Big time. Even the locals felt this.

But they won. And the locals went crazy.

Over the following weeks as South Africa kept winning, I felt a change as I pedaled through the country. Not just the whites were rooting for the Springboks. The entire country was caught up in rugby fever. Every village, town, store, and street corner was abuzz with chatter about their team.

The final match was set (South Africa against New Zealand) and I was at a game park, 25 miles away from a television. I hitched a ride into the nearest town and it was at the Hluhluwe rugby club that I watched the final historic game.

This audio clip is toward the end of the game. South Africa has pulled ahead, but everyone is waiting. In Rugby, as in soccer, the end of the game is determined by the ref. You can here one man plead, "How much more time, Mr. Ref?"

final minutes









Everyone is on pins and needles. South Africa wasn't supposed to get passed the first round and now they are seconds away from winning the world cup!

South Africa wins









Victory declared and the singing begins. It went on for hours, lasting much longer than the batteries on my tape recorder.

post win singing









Check out Playing the Enemy: Nelson Mandela and the Game That Made a Nation, the highly acclaimed book by John Carlin that the movie was based on.

You can read more about my personal experience with this amazing event in the February issue of Adventure Cyclist magazine.

audio recordings by Willie Weir
photos (South Africa-1995) by Willie Weir

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SIGHTS AND SOUNDS appears on Friday afternoons. Willie Weir is a columnist for Adventure Cyclist magazine. His latest book Travels with Willie: Adventure Cyclist compiles his favorite writings over the last twelve years. He lives in Seattle with his wife Kat. You can read about their local adventures and life without a car at www.yellowtentadventures.com.

More Inspiring Bicycle Travel Photos

A quick and inspiring reminder: our 1st Annual Bicycle Travel Photo Contest ends on Dec. 31st, 2009. Here are a few more entries that will tempt you to pack your bike and hit the road!

From Enrico Maria, Italy




From pokisti

From Peter Vojtek, Slovakia




From Sawang, Thailand

For more great photos, check out the Contest Group on Flickr.

Our First Annual Bicycle Travel Photo Contest ends December 31, 2009. Submit your best photos today!

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MEMBERSHIP HIGHLIGHTS is posted each Friday by Amy Corbin, Membership and Marketing Coordinator. It spotlights the various benefits of membership, what we have accomplished thanks to member support, and even interviews with some of our most passionate and dedicated members, both individual and organizational.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

A Killer Route Loop


Just the other day I received a call from a member asking when would be the best time to start the tour she and her husband were planning for next spring. This is not an unusual question and I often find myself referring to our Routes & Mapping FAQs for reference.

As the call continued, she told me she and her husband had crossed the U.S. last year using our route maps. They had had a great time, but they were looking to up the adventure-factor for this next trip, and put together a killer loop using sections from four of our routes.

The loop she described would begin in Silver City, New Mexico, where they would ride west on the Southern Tier Route to connect with our new Sierra Cascades Route (to be released in April) in southern California. The trip would continue north almost all the way to the United States/Canadian border in Sedro Woolley, Washington, and then head east on the Northern Tier Route to Whitefish, Montana. In Whitefish they will outfit their bikes with wider tires and head south back to Silver City following the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Does this sound deluxe or what?

As to the answer to her question: the best time to ride? It will depend on the weather. Mountain passes can be cleared of winter snow in May and then experience heavy snowfall again in June. I've pointed her to some resources to help her make her own decisions and I'll pass them on to you in a future post.

Personally, I can't wait for a trip report!

graphic by Adventure Cycling's Routes & Mapping Department

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GEOPOINTS BULLETIN is written by Jennifer 'Jenn' Milyko, an Adventure Cycling cartographer, and appears weekly, highlighting curious facts, figures and persons from Adventure Cycling's Route Network with tips and hints for personal route creation thrown in for good measure.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

The Adventure Cycling Sales Team


Well, the holiday season is in full swing and there's a strong possibility that if you or a loved one are planning a bike trip, you've used, or are thinking of using, our Cyclosource online store or gift catalog to make some great bike travel related purchases.

Did you know Adventure Cycling is a nonprofit organization? By ordering gear from us, you are supporting our mission of inspiring people of all ages to travel by bicycle for fitness, fun and self discovery.

Whether you call and place an order, or use our simple online system, there are real people processing your order with friendliness, efficiency, and humor.
  • Meet Beth (pictured above on the far left): Though her official title is "member services manager," we know her as our "front-line commando." Beth is the first person you see when you walk in our doors, usually the first person you speak to, and she single-handedly manages "the boys" in the front office -- Josh, John, Richard, Ted and Elliot. She is simply amazing and much appreciated by all of us in our East Wing.
  • Next, Kylie (pictured in middle), sales specialist or "pick and pack" master. Clearly over-qualified (she has a masters degree in environmental science) we throw all sorts of work her way -- from managing your orders to organizing our regional gatherings around the country. You can read her Greencycle column right here on Saturdays.
  • Finally, meet Ted (on right), or Charles Edward, as his parents christened him some 28 years ago. Ted has a degree in wild life biology and wrestled with fish for a number of summers before being sucked into working the store for us. I sit outside Ted's office and listen to him work the phones. How did one guy learn so much about bike touring, tents and tires?
Next time you call to place an order with Cyclosource, give a shout out to these hard-working people. They are here for you and will make sure your happy campers no matter where your bike adventures take you.

photo by Greg Siple

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CONNECTIONS is posted twice a month by Ginny Sullivan, Adventure Cycling's special projects director and features the cultural, historical, geographical, and human connections created through bike travel. Find out about our award-winning Underground Railroad Bicycle Route.

9th Annual Year in Ideas: Bicycle Highways



New York Times Magazine just published its 9th Annual Year in Ideas list, an A to Z compendium of "the most clever, important, silly and just plain weird innovations we carried back from all corners of the thinking world." I was thrilled that they picked up on the U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS), and that it was listed under "B" for bicycle.

However, instead of pitting the U.S. Bicycle Route System against Copenhagen's bike highways, a better match would have been to compare the U.S. Bicycle Route System with Euro Velo, which, like the USBRS, is being created from a mix of roadways and separated bike paths and trails, and is intended to encourage commuting, but also travel.

The U.S. Bicycle Route System is not a local urban network. It's envisioned as the connective tissue between the many different urban, suburban, and rural cycling routes in the U.S. (existing and to be created), and meant to unify these routes into a nationally recognized, signed, bicycle route system.

How will this happen and when? Follow Ginny Sullivan's posts on "Building the U.S. Bicycle Route System" right here on this blog. Learn more right now on in the USBRS FAQs, or, find out how to get involved.

graphic by casey greene/adventure cycling association

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NEWS, NETWORKING, AND NEW MEDIA is written by Winona Bateman, Adventure Cycling's media director, and appears weekly, highlighting cool media (articles, videos, photos, etc.) related to Adventure Cycling and bicycle travel. Writing a story about bicycle travel or Adventure Cycling Association? You can contact Winona via our media room or view our news releases.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

A Cyclotourist's Holiday Wish List

'Tis the season to make wish lists, so I’m going to put my requests out there. As the resident female in the Adventure Cycling Tours Department, I require my cycling gear to be functional and stylish. Call me silly, but if I’m going to spend most of my day pedaling my bike, I want to do it with a little bit of flair. So without further ado, here are my top picks. And remember, I’ve been very, very good this year…

5. Everyone has to have a favorite pro-cyclist; mine is Eddy Merckx. Widely known as "The Cannibal" he destroyed every cyclist in his path and won every race worth winning. He's most widely pictured in a sweet orange Molteni jersey, with world champion stripes. A wool replica is available from VeloGear; I'm almost certain that wearing it would make me speedier. The winningest cyclist in the world couldn’t be wrong!
4. If there is one thing that equals my love of cycling, it's my love of coffee. Bicycle Philosophy combines my passions with their Nothing Compares to a Bike Ride mug. I could drink my coffee while pondering JFK's famous quote--"Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a good bike ride." How true!

3. Ok, this is totally unrelated to cycling, but it wouldn’t be an authentic wish-list without it. And really, what cyclist doesn't adore ice-cream? A case of Klondike Bars would make me just about the happiest girl alive. Better order that Molteni Jersey a size up…

2. Arm Warmers are an essential part of every cyclo-tourists wardrobe, but why do they always gotta be so boring? Luckily, Sugoi makes a set that allow me to show my softer side; who says functionality cant be cute? This way, I can literally ride with my heart on my sleeve.
1. Drum-roll, please! Actually, my top pick isn't that exciting. Like pretty much everyone I know, a new bike is my number one wish for the holiday season. The thing is, most girl's bikes are just boy's bikes built smaller, or painted pink. Sweetpea Bicycles is a Portland company that makes bicycles by hand, with women-specific proportions in mind. The wait time is almost four years, and the cost for a full bike is around four thousand dollars, but this is a wish list, right?


top photo by VeloGear
middle photo by Sugoi
bottom photo by Sweetpea Bicycles


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ON THE ROAD is posted each Tuesday by Sarah Raz, Adventure Cycling's Tours Specialist and Intrepid Traveler, and shines a spotlight on the daily delights that take place on Adventure Cycling Tours.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Top Five Rides: A Biking Bucket List

As I write this, snow covers the ground outside my window and the thermometer reads an absurd 20 degrees below zero. The cycling season has come to a screeching halt, obviously; now, however, the dreaming and planning wheels are spinning up to speed.

Since I first pedaled cross-country in 1974 (almost, anyway: Seattle to northeast Wisconsin), I've had the pleasure of cycling in some terrific places. Florida. New England and old Santa Fe. The San Juan Islands. Kansas and Colorado. Southern Utah, southern France, and South Australia. But there are routes and trails I haven't ridden that I want to -- and intend to. My top-five dream rides follow.

Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Although I researched and mapped this route for Adventure Cycling in 1995-97, I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I've only bicycled about 20 percent of it. (Due to time constraints and other practicalities, I had to do most of the research in a Jeep Cherokee.) That's why the Great Divide is at the top of my list.

Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route. The maps for Adventure Cycling's newest long-distance route won't even be available until next spring. However, I've learned enough about this inland route stretching from Sumas, Washington, to Tecate, California, to know that I want to ride it in a big way.

The Canadian Maritimes (plus Quebec). I have no specific route or destination in mind for this fabled fairyland; I'd just like to pedal around the provinces for a month or two, turning left where the spirit moves me and right where that seems the better choice.

Cuba. Because it sounds exotic; full of life, good music, and great food. And it's still off-limits to Americans, sort of.

The Czech Republic. I've been told that if you enjoy cycle touring you should go to the Czech Republic. I've also been told that if you like beer you should visit the Czech Republic. Enough said?

There are other places I want to ride, sure. But this is a good start. What about you -- what destinations top your Biking Bucket List?

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BIKING WITHOUT BORDERS is posted every Monday by Michael McCoy, Adventure Cycling’s field editor, and highlights a little bit of this or a little bit of that — just about anything, as long as it’s related to traveling by bicycle.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Trek 520



Trips back home to Iowa always bring me back to my cycling past. Familiar roads, memories of RAGBRAI, and my first true touring bike, a Trek 520.

The Trek 520 was first introduced in 1983, and continues to make its way through the production line as one of the most popular touring bikes today. With a large following, there seems to be no slowing down for this model. The inaugural version was more a sport touring model, with lugged Reynolds steel, and no eyelets for racks. Over the years, it has developed into a full-on touring bike to meet the needs of weekend warriors and expedition tourists.

The 2010 Trek 520 steel frame is well refined with eyelets for racks and fenders, while the steel fork is drilled with low-rider rack eyelets. There are some nice subtle features, such as a pump peg, three bottle cage mounts to extend your hydration range, and a sloping top tube, which makes it easier to get on and off the bike. They also include fenders, and a rear rack to get you started.

The 9spd Shimano drivetrain is reliable, and highlighted by Dura Ace bar end shifters, Shimano Trekking triple crankset (48/36/26 gearing), and Deore LX derailleurs. For the components (handlebars, stem, seatpost, saddle), Trek uses their own in-house Bontrager parts. You will be happy with the wheelset, which is built tough with 36 spokes and uses long lasting Shimano LX hubs with cartridge sealed bearings.

All and all, this is a very well rounded bike, and at $1320, it's pretty affordable as well. Be sure to check out Trek's website for full specifications and sizing information.

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TOURING GEAR AND TIPS is written by Joshua Tack of Adventure Cycling's member services department. It appears weekly, highlighting technical aspects of bicycle touring and advice to help better prepare you for the journey ahead.

Friday, December 11, 2009

A Cold Weather Gift--Sound of the Surf


As I write this sentence, the temperature in Seattle is 25°F. Pedaling around the city would be a blast ... except for the black ice. When the temps rise above freezing, that infamous Northwest drizzle will return.

Yes, there are those hardy individuals that embrace the cold and wet and freezing. For the rest, winter is a time to dream of warmer climates and climbs. Time to plan that next great bike trip that includes less ice and more ice cream.

If you are stuck in a cubical or a cold winter rut, I present you with sounds of the sea: warm beaches and breezes.

This first recording is from a place called Maria Gorda in Pinar del Rio, Cuba. Turn up your speakers or put on your headphones and let your mind drift into bicycle travel mode.

surf's up I









Now that you are relaxed and warm, this next clip is a full ten minutes of bicycle beach bliss. Kat and I pedaled the road from Pilon to Santiago Cuba in 1998. A road that had just been newly paved. The traffic? One vehicle every other hour. It was like pedaling along the Oregon coast in mid August ... with no cars. There was so little to be found along this stellar stretch of coastline, we actually had to hike into a town to find food to purchase.

This beach wasn't sand, but millions of small smooth stones. You can hear them if you listen closely.

There are hidden beaches and coastlines all over this planet for you to discover on your next bicycle adventure.

Dream. Pedal. Travel. Repeat.

surf's up II










audio recordings (surf's up I & II) by Willie Weir
photo (Cuban beach-1998) by Willie Weir

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SIGHTS AND SOUNDS appears on Friday afternoons. Willie Weir is a columnist for Adventure Cyclist magazine. His latest book Travels with Willie: Adventure Cyclist compiles his favorite writings over the last twelve years. He lives in Seattle with his wife Kat. You can read about their local adventures and life without a car at www.yellowtentadventures.com.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Improving Our Communication Techniques



Last week we held our very first meeting of the Routes & Mapping Working Group via teleconference. This group of seven people will serve as an ongoing resource to the department with the hopes we can stay ahead of the curve in matters of mapping, technology, and bicycle travel.

One of the first items on the agenda is to find a way to communicate more effectively and in a more timely manner with cyclists, those in the planning stages and those out on tour, about the information on our maps and about our routes. There are a lot of tools out there for this kind of communication from RSS feeds to text messages to good ol' web pages.

Primarily we are thinking of potentially fast changing information most important to bicycle travelers such as road closures due to construction, wildfires or floods. However, this could also expand into service information tidbits like new or closed restaurants, grocery stores, motels, and the like. Right now these communications are handled through addenda items and a temporary route road closure discussion on our Forums.

In this brainstorming stage, the possibilities are endless as to what we could do and how we could do it. What's your great idea? Do you have a preferred method for getting updates and changes? When you're out on the road, how would you like to receive communications from us? Or do you want to?

in this photo: This group of cyclists were turned back on Going-to-the-Sun Highway due to construction.

photo courtesy of pmccullar's photostream on Flickr

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GEOPOINTS BULLETIN is written by Jennifer 'Jenn' Milyko, an Adventure Cycling cartographer, and appears weekly, highlighting curious facts, figures and persons from Adventure Cycling's Route Network with tips and hints for personal route creation thrown in for good measure.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Old Ideas Refreshed...Even Better Today

About six months ago, Greg Siple (our art director and co-founder) handed me an article from American Cycling magazine entitled, "200,000 Miles of Bikeways: To Become a Reality Within Decade" (PDF/2M). Dated 1968, five years before Adventure Cycling was founded, it was touted as "The Magazine of Touring, Racing, and Family Bicycling." The article credits Mr. and Mrs. George Fichter, Floridian cycling advocates that focused "the attention of city fathers, federal and state governments, and the President [Lyndon B. Johsnon] of the United States, on the crying need for planned cycling facilities."

I read this article with fascination -- and you will too.

And, only a year ago, I sat in a long distance trails meeting and learned from Steve Elkinton, program leader for the National Park Service's National Trail System that there had been a movement a few years ago to create an inter-state trail network designed to connect communities across the United States.

Then, in August, an AASHTO staff member sent me an article from the 1982 AASHTO Quarterly Newsletter by Jack Freidenrich called, "Biking by Route Number" (PDF/568k) which detailed (with clear excitement) three new U.S. Bicycle Routes: Route 76 through Illinois, Kentucky and Virginia, and Route 1 through Virginia and North Carolina. These routes are also known as Adventure Cycling's TransAmerica Trail and the Atlantic Coast Route respectively.

So what the heck happened with these national efforts to get government support behind bicycling?

I recently spoke to Tom Huber, the bicycle and pedestrain coordinator for Wisconsin's Department of Transportation and he explained that twenty years ago, their was a clear effort to steer cyclists onto certain roads deemed appropriate for cycling. Then, the momentum in transportation shifted and the trend moved toward "suitability." In other words, tell the cyclists what to expect (shoulder widths, traffic counts) and let them make their own decisions about what roads to use.

Today, the momentum has shifted once again. Back, yes back, to what was originally a great idea. The American Cycling magazine article defined "bicycle safety routes" as "secondary roads connecting residential areas with schools, playgrounds, shopping centers, ball parks and other centers of activity...marked with easy-to-read signs."

Sounds a lot like our modern efforts to create a U.S. Bicycle Route System, as well as the bike route networks evolving in cities, the prospering safe routes to school programs across the country, and the flourishing greenways and trail systems popping up everywhere. I guess a good idea never gets old. Let's make sure though, that this time around, the 200,000 mile bikeway system becomes a reality.

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BUILDING THE U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE SYSTEM is posted twice per month by Ginny Sullivan, USBRS coordinator, and features news and updates related to the emerging U.S. Bicycle Route System.

Stories from Adventure Cycling's Headquarters: Our Visitors




Inspired by the National Day of Listening, I asked a few of our staff to share one of their favorite stories about one or two of the visitors who came through our headquarters this past summer.

Here's Kevin's story -- Kevin McManigal is our GIS specialist and a dedicated bicycle commuter and adventurer.









Learn more about these two at their website: www.ProjectTandemBlog.org or watch their teaser for the film that they are creating from their collected stories and photographs.

Here's Sarah's story -- Sarah Raz is one of our finest tours specialists and an intrepid bicycle traveler.









Come visit us this summer! It's our favorite time of the year: it's cycling season & we get to meet you!

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NEWS, NETWORKING, AND NEW MEDIA is written by Winona Bateman, Adventure Cycling's media director, and appears weekly, highlighting cool media (articles, videos, photos, etc.) related to Adventure Cycling and bicycle travel. Writing a story about bicycle travel or Adventure Cycling Association? You can contact Winona via our media room or view our news releases.

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Bicycles and Boxes: Getting Your Bike to the Start of a Tour


As Adventure Cyclists start to make plans for their early season tours a question looms large overhead -- how do I get my bicycle to the start of the ride? Recent airline crackdowns on luggage, along with the general complexity of disassembling and reassembling your bike can be stressful and frustrating.

Luckily, we’ve created a How-To Guide for you to check out, outlining your airline and mailing choices. Ground shipping is becoming increasingly attractive, and some folks are even using Amtrak and Greyhound as methods of bicycle movement. I'm sure readers have some creative ideas that we'd love to hear! Of course, there’s always the old standby: wheeling your bike to the local shop and having an expert make the call.

photo by Sarah Raz

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ON THE ROAD is posted each Tuesday by Sarah Raz, Adventure Cycling's Tours Specialist and Intrepid Traveler, and shines a spotlight on the daily delights that take place on Adventure Cycling Tours.

Monday, December 7, 2009

The Bicycle Beat Goes On

Reader response to my "Rock the Bike" blog last week was off the charts, so before the excitement dwindles I'll tabulate the new list here (in no particular order). Some of these came in on Facebook; others via the Adventure Cycling blog -- so, chances are you haven't seen the entire list yet:

"Bicycle Race" by Queen
"Bicycle" by Livingston Taylor
"Bike" by Pink Floyd
Hit & Run (album name) by Sloan
"Brand New Key" by Melanie
"Broken Bicycles" by Tom Waits
"Blue Bicycle" by Brad Hoshaw
"My White Bicycle" by Nazareth (also by the Nuggets)
"Bicycle Song" by the Red Hot Chili Peppers
"My New Bicycle" by the Roches
"I'd Like That" by XTC
"Rockin' Bicycle (built for two)" by Fats Domino
"The Idiot on the Bike" by Aveo
"The Bicycle Song" by David Rovics (holy cow, I just noticed Rovics has his own Rock 'n' Bike playlist posted on his homepage ... my work is just beginning!)

There were a couple of other songs mentioned, but they were stretches. And then there were these comments:

"Also [Bruce] Springsteen's 'Hungry Heart': 'I went out for a ride and I never came back.' Out for a ride ... on his Surly Long Haul Trucker, Baby."

"I personally always convert the lyrics to the Arlo Guthrie's 'Motorcycle Song': 'I don't want a pickle, I just want to ride on my biiiii-cicle.'" (I love this song.)

The list will continue to grow. But I promise not to report back on the matter until I have at least 100 titles in hand.

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BIKING WITHOUT BORDERS is posted every Monday by Michael McCoy, Adventure Cycling’s field editor, and highlights a little bit of this or a little bit of that — just about anything, as long as it’s related to traveling by bicycle.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Bike Messengers Deliver a Message for the Planet


Bicycle couriers have been around in large cities for quite a while, racing through streets with their big courier bags to deliver items for businesses.

Here in our hometown of Missoula, Montana, we take advantage of a fantastic new company called exCARgo Missoula Bicycle Delivery. Not only do they transport items by basic messenger bag, they can carry up to 300 pounds on their bike trailers and cargo trike! Adventure Cycling hires them to carry printed materials to and from the copy center in town as well as other occasional delivery needs.



For companies interested in reducing their carbon footprint, bike couriers and messengers are excellent options for deliveries. No gas-powered vehicle required! Using bikes also negates the need for parking, ensuring quicker transport. Another plus? Their rates typically will not fluctuate with oil and gas costs, nor do they assess a fuel surcharge. Supporting bike courier companies is not only a great option for fast, cheap delivery of goods -- the planet benefits as well!

photos by Greg Siple

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GREENCYCLE is posted each Saturday by Kylie Paul, Adventure Cycling’s sales and shipping specialist. With a lifetime commitment to conservation, Kylie hopes to share the many ways that bicycling and Adventure Cycling are helping to improve our planet!



Off Season Bike Maintenance



While the winter season often means that you spend less time on your bike, it doesn't necessarily mean that you should spend less time with it. Your bike has seen many miles throughout the course of the year, and this is an excellent time to give it a tuneup before you zero out your cycle computer and start logging the miles for 2010.

Before I get going, I want to acknowledge that bike maintenance can be intimidating if you're not used to doing it regularly. If you don't feel comfortable working on your bike, check with your local shop to see if they offer repair classes, or would be willing to work with you on your bike. Just be sure to reciprocate the favor, and purchase replacement parts and tools from them.

To start the process off, I like to first give the bike a good wipe down. Using a rag, and some dish soap mixed with water in a spray bottle, I wash the dirt and grease off the frame and components. This will help keep you cleaner as you work on your bike later, and make it easier to inspect the bike for flaws and/or worn parts.

From here, it's a good idea to look at four key areas, which are all moving parts on your bike and as such tend to wear out the quickest. These areas are your drivetrain, brakes, cables and housing, and wheels and tires.

The drivetrain of your bike consists of your cassette, derailleurs, chain, and crankset. Looking at your gears, you can tell if these are worn out if the cogs are coming to a sharp point. The chain is a little more tricky, and there are tools available that allow to you see if your chain has stretched near its breaking point. Generally, I shoot for around 2000 miles per chain, but that can vary based on different brands. If you can, it's never a bad idea to replace your cassette and chain at the same time, so that they wear into each other consistently.

I tend to change my cables and housing, regardless of wear, annually, but a good checkup is to look for frayed segments of the cable, and places on the housing that is beginning to wear through. If you feel a lot of friction when you shift or brake, its probably time to have them replaced.

The brakes are relatively simple to maintain. Two things to look for here are spring tension and pad wear. If the brake pad has worn down to the point where only a few millimeters of cushion remain, they should be replaced. As for spring tension, if you feel like your braking is spongy, even after you have replaced the cables, the springs might be reaching the end of their useful life.

Lastly we come to your wheels and tires. Make sure there aren't any large cuts in the tire that go through the casing entirely, and look to see that there aren't any frayed areas on your side walls. With the wheels, look to see that they roll true (that they don't bounce side to side, or up and down), and check for loose spokes.

With the inspection and replacement process over, add some light grease to the chain, and start thinking about your 2010 adventures.

photo by Josh Tack

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TOURING GEAR AND TIPS is written by Joshua Tack of Adventure Cycling's member services department. It appears weekly, highlighting technical aspects of bicycle touring and advice to help better prepare you for the journey ahead.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Rajasthani Portrait


This portrait was taken after a night of feasting in a little village a day's ride outside of Takhatgarh, Rajasthan. The reason for the party? Me! Or I should say, the odd occurrence of a touring cyclist pedaling into their village. The first westerner to visit in over ten years.

The gentlemen in the yellow turban is the oldest man in town, and it was extremely important that he be in the photo.

The beauty of cycling in India was seeing the country that most tourists and travelers were missing. I met a group of backpackers in Jaipur. They had bussed from Agra and their next stop was an overnight bus to the desert city of Jaisalmer. So much distance covered in the dark.

That same journey took me four days on a bicycle. Four long, hot days. And yes, there were times that I longed to be on an air conditioned bus. But, oh the adventures I had in those four days.

I look at the faces in this portrait, and the memories come flooding back. Too much food. Too many beers. Dancing and singing.

After taking this photo I was packing up my panniers and my host's mother came up and grabbed my arm. She took my wrist and tied around it a small home-made ornament of gold shiny paper with colored buttons and silver fringe. Her son explained that she had heard I did not have a sister, and she would like to be mine. She flashed me a three-toothed smile.

I smiled back. "I'd be honored."

photo (Rajasthani Portrait, India-1994) by Willie Weir (click the photo for larger image)

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SIGHTS AND SOUNDS appears on Friday afternoons. Willie Weir is a columnist for Adventure Cyclist magazine. His latest book Travels with Willie: Adventure Cyclist compiles his favorite writings over the last twelve years. He lives in Seattle with his wife Kat. You can read about their local adventures and life without a car at www.yellowtentadventures.com.